Heartbreaking. You wouldn't know it from these pictures or the stories of smelly water in the summer, but it is one of the most beautiful and magical places on earth.
We were there last in the Autumn of '01. We stayed in a little palazetto across the Grand Canal from the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. The owners had fallen on hard times and were renting out rooms. They knew absolutely nothing about how to manage a bed and breakfast, but the views couldn't be beat.
We walked everywhere, up and down those little bridges over the smaller canals. Our favorite restaurant was a little place called Al Covo, near the Arsenale, run by a Venetian man and his wife, who is from Texas. She learned to cook all her husband's Nonna's recipes and they opened the restaurant, which quickly became popular with hip Venetians and American tourists.
But everything was wonderful in Venice. I wish them well.