I have to disagree with you; I don't think it's poorly written at all, and he most certainly does not say that Tharp's work is not to his taste; at one point he says that "in her best pieces her freedom is exhilarating." He's saying that he doesn't think this is her best work, which is quite different.
I like the fact that the Times is offering differing points of view about the same show; they have done this before with shows that are heavily dance-focused. I like reading the opinion of someone who has clearly followed Tharp's work for years, including her previous work with Sinatra songs.
Maggie-the-schnoodle