One of my elective classes in undergrad was a course on the history of modern fashion. It spanned a period between the Industrial Revolution through to today. A lot of the people bemoaning the state of dress in America today are not in touch with the cultural influences that have shaped American attitudes to fashion, over the course of the 20th century particularly.
Americans' relationship to clothing in the last hundred years has been one of distaste for the rigid socioeconomic semiotics that were in place in Europe. The story of American fashion in the 20th century was all about deconstruction and appropriation. In the 1920s, women threw off their corsets and cut off their hair, and men doffed the heavy, often impractical suit for the sportcoat. Coco Chanel appropriated male military fashion into her dresses, which aimed to convey utilitarian effortlessness rather than flourish and fussiness. In a way, Chanel's utilitarian thrust summarizes the whole story of American fashion in the 20th century. The trend away from conspicuous markers of wealth in one's clothing continued during the Great Depression. Even among the tony, conservative New Englanders, we witnessed a move away from formal business attire to sportswear: what we consider "prep" style emerged from the adoption of things like madras shirts, polo shirts (originally for playing tennis), and the Oxford button-down (the button-down collar designed to keep out of the face of polo players). You could no longer rely on a person's clothing to tell you their class, as trying TOO hard to "dress up" was looked upon as gauche. It was also around that period that the blue jean (originally devised by Levi Strauss for gold miners, and taken up by farmers and cowboys) entered the mainstream.
This process accelerated in the 1960s with the counterculture, Second Wave feminism, and the discovery of an entirely new market for clothing manufacturers: teenagers. Before this time, teens dressed mostly like their parents. After the Baby Boom, young people had considerably more disposable income, and presented an excellent opportunity for marketing departments. The glorification of youth that runs into present day attitudes about fashion began in this period. There is also another theme that has run through the last century: that of masculinity. Dressing too formally or paying too much attention to one's appearance has been looked down upon among men. The rugged, devil-may-care aesthetic is one that has dominated American male fashion. Think Marlon Brando or James Dean. Later, in the 90s, California surfer, skater, urban hiphop and working class (think grunge) fashion would take precedence. The emphasis on athleticism that began in the New England prep scene continued through the latter half of the century: guys wore sneakers, basketball shorts, baseball caps, etc. Nowadays, we are left with the legacy of the American distrust of fashion: people
It's important to realize that fashion is cyclical. The 1980s and 1990s both saw a resurgence of interest in the prep aesthetic, and more recently, men have been taking an interest in playing around with fashion. The proliferation of men's fashion websites and forums in the last five years has been insane. It is no longer considered "metrosexual" (at least among the young) to care about how you look and put effort into it. The actual style in which that care manifests, however, is not going to be the same style as has existed in the past.
What you see in Broadway audiences today is the result of a very long and sometimes deliberate process. I think enforcing a dress code is trying to move the tide backward. People will begin to dress more formally if the societal trends move American fashion that way -- not by shaming them in news articles or message boards. Fashion (the intersection of culture and clothing) is bigger than us all.
Updated On: 7/31/16 at 06:15 PM